Roberta Perry is a four-time Zephyr alumnus from New York. From my experience traveling with her, I would say she is a good athlete with a strong constitution who, like many people, tries hard to stay in shape as she cruises through her 40s. In short, I think she is a pretty typical Zephyr traveler.
This past July, Roberta and her two siblings joined another group of six travelers and summitted Mount Kilimanjaro. They took the same Lemosho Route that our Zephyr group will take in late January. However, her group went up what is known as “The Breach”, the most technical aspect of any of the routes. We will skip that by walking a bit farther around this area. Roberta was kind enough to answer a few questions about her climb:
What made you plan a trip to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro? My brother suggested the trip for his 50th birthday. He saw the movie “To the Roof of Africa” and was totally hooked. He knew all he had to do was ask and we were there. Reaching the summit was spectacular. Doing it with my siblings, unbelievable!
Were you nervous about your ability to reach the summit? To be honest, not really. Having skated with Zephyr on the Mineral Belt trail, at 11,000+ feet, I knew I was going to acclimatize fairly easily. Having the extra days and the slower pace made it so much better, too. Most of our group took diamox to help any altitude issues.
Did you train in advance? I did some training beforehand, but nothing like what doing a similar type of hike could have prepared me for. Stair climbing was my best training. There was not a staircase I wouldn’t climb in the few months prior. Also, I walked an average of 2-3 miles a day, every day (thank my dog for that). I skated as much as possible the 2 months prior for stamina. There are many regimens out there, but I found doing what I liked to do made it easier to do it more often.
Was the trip harder or easier than you expected? It was harder than I expected during the rock scrambles and the Lava Tower climb, which I totally recommend as great practice for the Breach. There were a few moments of “what did we just do?” on the Breach, worn with an expression of incredulousness, however, the majority of the climb was what I anticipated or easier. I believe it’s all about the stamina, the acclimatizing, the one foot in front of the other mentality and the “pole pole”(swahili for slow) pace the guides make sure you stay at. It’s about the will to make it to the top.
What was the highlight of the climb? The staff, the laughter, the camaraderie. The fact that all 9 of us made it to the summit. The fact that I got to indeed see, touch and taste “The Snows of Kilimanjaro”.
Anything else you want to share with potential Zephyr travelers interested in climbing Kili? The people of Tanzania are some of the hardest working, nicest people around. Hakuna Matata is a real expression and the townspeople use it all the time. It was harder coming down than up, because you are moving at a faster pace, and your legs/knees are not as used to that type of down climbing. The climb was cold, dirty, smelly, difficult, and exhausting. It was also amazing, exhilarating, brilliant, educational and fantastic. I would not have changed a moment! The experts say that by 2020 there won’t be snow left at the peak. I suggest to everyone who wants to see the snow for yourself, do this trip soon! There is no doubt you will love the trip and the experience!!
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Allan’s note: I have struggled in the past few weeks when asked by some of our Zephyr travelers how they would do on Kilimanjaro and think Robert’s viewpoint is an excellent addition to my own. My favorite part of her answer is “It’s about the will to make it to the top.”
If you have any questions for Roberta, post them here on this blog and I am sure she would love to answer them. We’d love to have you join us in Tanzania come January!
Great job, Roberta.
Liz & I have signed up for Jan.
Any equipment tips? What would you leave behind? What did you miss having? How cold did it get?
Hi Dan/Liz,
Congrats on signing up. I remember the day I gave my deposit, had the pictures of the mountain in front of me, and said to my sister, holy crap, are we really going to do this? 🙂 I didn’t miss having much, because knowing it’s temporary living conditions helps a lot! You do get a true appreciation for the little things in life, though, like a long hot shower, or not having to dress fully to go pee in the middle of the night.
Because Tanzania is so close to the equator, the days and nights are pretty much 12 hours each. When the sun is up, it can get really hot, and when it drops, it gets cold! We did the climb in July, their dry or “winter” season. Jan. is more of their summer, so your weather might be a bit milder, too. Sunscreen is king!
I rented my helmet, headlamp, sleeping bag and poles, but many people brought their own. Poles were really helpful, as much or more so on the way down, as up. Wicking regular and long underwear is really important, because it gets really cold at night, and you don’t want to be freezing your butt off, literally, if you sweat. I had a super light down jacket, my ski jacket and ski pants, thin and thick long johns, and 2 different types of hiking socks. Sock and glove liners really help too. Think skiing weather for 12 hours straight. I used hand/feet warmers the last 2 mornings of the climb.
I also brought extra long johns/socks/hats/gloves and energy bars, etc. and a few things I could part with to leave with the guides/porters. It is a really poor country and they are lacking in true winter gear, so it was with great dignity that they accepted our gifts. I also brought a few extra little items like a Mets hat, as a gift for my personal porter.
We had a portable shower on our trip, but you really don’t use it for too many days, so having baby wipes or wet ones/talcum powder/panti-liners for the ladies and easy to use deodorant helps.
I used my hydration backpack every day until the last, when it froze, so make sure you have liter bottles with wide mouths too. You have to drink a minimum of 3-4 liters a day. Gatorade packets helped a lot.
Bring lots of cash and lots of small bills, as you will be tipping everybody! I never wanted to use the cash machines as many are corrupt.
I know you will have the GREATEST time!
Wow, Roberta, thank you so much for the detailed reply! This is so exciting and you are just making it that much more real.
I didn’t realize helmets would be in the mix, and forgot that gifts for thanking our porters will be very important. We’ve been taking weekend climbs up local Mt. Diablo (12-mile round trip with 3000 vertical) to build our muscular endurance, and I’ve got Leki poles to help my knees with the 9000 downhill day. We’re also planning on doing the Diamox as we did on the Tibet trek.
With all that on track I am now most worried about the 33-pound luggage weight limit for internal flights, because we plan to extend our stay in Tanzania by a week.
Liz
The info here has been a great help. Forgive my ignorance – at night do you sleep in your thermals or leave all your layers on? Also did you need a waterproof jacket and trousers? I have just booked as a 50th birthday pressie to myself – I’m very fit – but mountain walking and camping will be a new experience – so any hints and tips wil be really welcome x
Liz and Dave: We needed helmets for the morning of the Western Breech crossing. I believe your tour goes around the longer way and not directly up and over the breech, so I don’t know if you will need them. Poles are key for down. The only downside with the Diamox is that mixed with the Malaria medicine, it makes you want to pee more, but I found it was worth it.
I carried as lightly as I could. I wore my hiking boots on the plane, too. The wicking clothing is rather light and I really did do the layering trick. I made the entire trip with 2 carry on sized wheelie bags and a backpack. They supplied the duffles (another part of the rental package) and so we left our regular suitcases at the hotel and only brought what we needed for the mountain on the hike itself. We had to lay out all our clothing for guide inspection, the day before the climb. We did 3 days safari after, too, so I needed those type of clothes too. I found the zipper khaki type pants to be the best.
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Stella, Congrats! Our friend Vickie actually hit the summit on her 60th birthday and it was truly a moment to behold. In forest zone, we slept in very light thermals, liner type socks and a thin shirt. As you go up and it gets colder, I switched to heavier thermals. The bags are designed to use your body heat to warm up the pockets of down, so truly, the less you can sleep with on, the better and toastier you can be. We were amazed at how warm it was inside the bag, which made crawling out of them in the middle of the night to pee a bit of a challenge. 🙂 Yes waterproof jacket/pants and backpack cover. Gaiters are highly recommended as they keep your pants/boots much cleaner and drier, too. It can get very dusty, especially in the skree on the way down.
You are all going to love the experience!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28777686@N02/sets/72157621659633238/
Here are some of my pictures. A bunch of the safari shots, including the close up elephant, the plover and the giraffes are from Lake Maynara. It’s a beautiful preserve. We also went to the Ngorongoro Crater, which was spectacular!
I too was so inspired after watching that IMAX movie: I cannot get it out of my mind: when I sleep, upon waking and when I go hiking. I really want to set this climb as a goal to do in about 9mths. (even if I don’t make it there, at least I am in a positive mind frame right now for the training for it, muscle building, toning, working on endurance and fitness routine and having a totally positive and Zen goal to work towards!)
What were the pros & cons of the tour group you chose, as well as your guide?
What have you heard may be the best months to do this trek?
How did you carry a hydration pack AND a backpack? (and how/where do you get your daily water from?)
Any tips on brand/make/model of backpack, boots, bag?
You can leave items in your bags storage while on the trek. Can you leave your gifts/tips in there until the climb is over, or do you need to bring those items along with you?
Any other tips in regards to things packed along? (mini pre-pated toothbrushes), gum, deodorant, tissue/toilet paper, hygiene items, (face wipes, natch!), suncreen * chapstick, dry shampoo, ect.)
Is there things you wish you had, and things you brought which were useless or you had preferred to have brought something else?
Which items would u suggest to rent vs. buy/bring?
Where/which safari did u do?
(My husband is from Zimbabwe, and I have been there, as well as South Africa).
What is your suggestion of trip estimation or days there? ie: 1 or 2 nites of rest after flight @ hotel before the hike and after? I was thinking of going to Zanzibar, but need to figure out what else, (Tsavo, Serengeti, Nairobi).
If you would like, my email is ransley@cox.net might be easier to converse, and so I don’t clog up your blog!
Thanx so much in advance. So inspiring ! Linda
Hi LInda,
Sorry for the delay in response. I am in my busy season now! It sounds like you have the training under control. Perfect. I really believe in doing what you love to do. I wish I had hiked a bit more before hand, but thankfully, it didn’t stop me from the top!
If Zephyr had this trip last year, there would have been no question I would have traveled with them. But this being the first year, we traveled with Kiliwarriors. The key is having guides that have done the trek many times before. Usually the guides are porters for years before they train to be guides. For us, there really were all pros, no cons. Everything was taken care of for us, and the entire time we felt very much “cocooned” and safe. I’m sure you will have the same with Zephyr, as that is how I have always felt on the 4 other trips I took with them and the one to Spain I have booked for next summer.
My friends cousin did the trek the same time of year you are, and loved it. We were in the “dry season”, their winter, so the weather was pleasant in Arusha but on Safari, it was even a bit chilly. You will be there in Tanzanian summer, so I am sure the weather will be glorious. It does get rather cold as you go up!
I paid extra for a personal porter so my daypack was carried by him, I carried my hydration backpack only, which holds 2 liters and has room for some extras plus my camera. My brother carried his own, and so he put his hydration pack inside his day pack and snaked the hose out. He carried about 4 liters in there, plus incidentals like light rain gear, lip balm, snacks etc. His weighed about 15lbs. Mine about 5. Only when he was climbing over the breech, which you are going around not over, did he feel the extra weight and one of the porters helped him out. The water was filtered with hand pumps every single day by the porters. They collected it from the water stream and even had to melt ice as we hit crater zone. Not one person on our tour had any problems with the water.
I have waterproof Timberland boots with Gore tex. They were fantastic. I wore them for 4 months every time I walked. I recommend anything that is comfortable for you. Everyone will be different. The Northface fleece is fantastic and really did the job keeping the warmth in. I did treat myself to a Marmite super light down jacket that folds to nothing and is super warm.
We left absolutely everything in the hotel that did not belong on the trek. It was there for 9 days and when we got back, it was all in perfect condition. Our guides came the day before and we had to lay all our stuff out on the bed for the trek. It all went in the duffel or daypack depending on the needs.
Tips regarding thing to pack: mini pre-pated toothbrushes (sounds great!), energy snacks and gum-yes, deodorant-definitely!!! (not a lot of showering up there), tissue/toilet paper-yes, hygiene items, (face wipes, body wipes, panti-liners(that was a suggestion after that I wish I had!!), suncreen- 30+, DEET insect repellent, chapstick or natural shea butter, organic camping shampoo, journal extra pens, fleece socks to keep batteries warm at the top. Extra items like socks and hats etc. to give to the guides, too.
I rented helmet for the breech, headlamp, duffel, sleeping bag and poles. Up to you to buy if you will use again sooner than later.
We went to Ngorongoro Crater which was brilliant and teeming with wildlife, as was Lake Maynara too. Both different and yet a bit of the same. The elephants tusks were the noticeable difference. The salt deposits in the crater make for really long tusks. The ones in Manyara were much shorter. We booked through the same tour company for the safari too. They have it as an add-on.
We had 3 nights in Arusha before the climb and 1 night after before heading to safari. We stayed at Sopa lodge on the Northern edge of the Crater. I think 2 full days and nights in the beginning would be perfect.
Thanks for letting me relive the trip. It’s amazing how long we planned for it, and how 4 months have now passed since I am home. It truly was the experience of a lifetime!!
Best,
Roberta
Oh, one more thing. Bring lots and lots of cash and lots and lots in small bills as you will be tipping constantly. They do take charges there, but not always, and I would not trust most of the cash machines. Many are corrupt.
Thank you for all the time involved for detailed tips.
I did ck out both the warrior site & Zephyr. I am wondering why the later is offering the climb for less than ½ of warriors, when it is quite explicit on not to ever cut costs with such a dramatic trek? I have requested more info from Zephyr to compare the details. (I luv their climb & safari package).
Meanwhile, I will ck-out my local REI store & ask reps also for their expert advice on equipment & clothing. (then troll ebay & craigslist!) I think a silk bag liner would be great if renting :-).
SO now the biggest task of them all: saving the money to be able to accomplish this very expensive dream! that is my biggest hurdle now! Whew!
I appreciate all your input! Thanks so much! Hoping to hike the grand canyon @ xmas 🙂
Hi Linda and others reading this blog,
I find it fantastic that my initial interview with Roberta for this blog has generated so much interest and so many questions. I have stayed on the sidelines until now but wanted to give you the official Zephyr Adventures’ scoop.
First off, for those of you booked with us or planning to join us on Kili in 2010 or 2011, we will send you a complete Pre-Departure Packet after you register. This will include a packing list. Roberta’s tips about layering and using synthetic materials are all accurate. She is right that we won’t need helmets on the Zephyr trip because we are not doing the breach.
Second, I would like to address Linda’s comment on pricing. I have had this question before. I personally spent weeks interviewing and discussing with various local operators to pick what I thought was the best choice for both our Kilimanjaro climb and our post-climb safari. There is a vast difference in local operators and reputation – both with individual travelers and with other US tour operators – is important. We have two excellent separate operators, one for the climb and one for the safari.
Pricing does vary dramatically for Kili climbs. One big variation is the route up the mountain, so make sure you are comparing apples to apples. Beyond that, there are a few local operators who try to cut corners but these operators are quickly removed from the market. Most operators in Tanzania are good. There are other operators who add in extra details to make the climb a “luxury” climb – and you will pay a lot for those additional details. I don’t think it is necessary to pay high dollar for details that don’t affect your overall experience.
Realistically, you need to figure that each outfit also has a different required profit margin. We put our money into our tours, which is why of the nine people booked on our January 2010 Kili climb, all nine are alumni of previous Zephyr trips. What we don’t do is require a huge profit margin to cover our admin expenses or profit for investors. It allows us to price our trips reasonably. This same theory holds true for a biking trip in Europe – you can pay 2X as much to some operators for a similar trip.
Keep up the questions! I am sure Roberta isn’t tired of answering them yet. 🙂