Conservation Alliance

March 23rd, 2010

conservation allianceI just wrote a check to pay our 2010 dues for The Conservation Alliance. The alliance is a group of outdoor industry companies whose motto is “Outdoor Business Giving Back to the Outdoors”.

We have been a member of this group for at least five years and each year we simply write a check that goes to the alliance’s coffers. That’s all we do. The cool thing about the group, though, is that 100% of the donated funds goes to support local conservation efforts in the form of grants to non-profit groups. Recent grants have gone to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, Colorado Mountain Club, and the National Parks Conservation Association. 34 grants in total were given out last year.

Even cooler, our little annual contribution is multiplied tremendously because the Conservation Alliance has a total of 170 members ranging from magazines (Men’s Journal) to retailers (Eastern Mountain Sports) to manufacturers (Mountain Hardware). In total, the group has donated over $7 million to conservation causes.

Little old Zephyr Adventures is not last on the list – we are second to last, alphabetically. Regardless, we feel proud to be part of this group so we can do our own small part.

Messages from Zephyr Alumni

March 17th, 2010

alumniwebsiteI received two messages from Zephyr Alumni recently I wanted to share with our blog readers. The first was from Tony Santucci, who most recently traveled with us to Tanzania, and who referenced a Yahoo News story titled Study: Happiness is Experiences, Not Stuff.

The gist of the article is we humans tend to receive greater happiness from engaging in experiences, be they a trip around the world or a dinner with friends, than we do buying material items. Now to me, that seems obvious. It was interesting, however, that the difference stems in part from our tendency to second-guess our purchases of “stuff” (Did I buy the right HD Television?) and our lack of second-guessing when we purchase “experiences”.

The conclusion from an adventure tour operator? Don’t wait! Book your next vacation now and you’ll love it forever after!

The second came from Eddie Lee, another well-traveled Zephyrite, who sent me a message via Facebook in Facebook-style lingo: “nxt mon tony bourdain no rez en provence. 2200. travel channel!”

Apparently Tony Bourdain, host of the show No Reservations on the Travel Channel, will next be producing a show on his travels to Provence where he “becomes enamored of Provence’s culture and cuisine”. The show airs this coming Monday at 10:00 PM Eastern/Pacific.

Eddie sent this message to me and several other Zephyr alumni because we will all be in Provence together next month on Zephyr’s Biking Adventure. The only thing I fear about watching Tony’s show: he probably didn’t get on a bicycle!

African Safaris: Tanzania versus South Africa

March 6th, 2010

As an adventure travel company, one of the things I have always said is “we only run active tours”. No bus tours for me, thank you. However, I must admit our two African safaris stretch that a bit.

Lion and Zephyr Landrover in Tanzania

In Africa, we run a “hike, wine, and safari” tour that is absolutely incredible.  And just last month in Tanzania we added a five-day safari to the back end of our Mount Kilimanjaro trek.

Now, safaris themselves are amazing. I am a pretty jaded traveler, having seen many places and sights around the world, but I can truly say a safari is a top-five experience of a lifetime. The thrill of seeing animals in action, the beauty of being in the great African outdoors, and the joy of discussing each day’s sightings with your fellow safari participants is something everyone should experience once.

Plus, we do two things to enhance the experience for active travelers. First, we schedule the safari as part of a tour, specifically by adding in hiking (South Africa) and the Kili climb (Tanzania). Second, we get out of the vehicle to do short walking safaris twice on each trip, which both gets us a little exercise and gives us a distinctly unique viewpoint.

My experiences in Tanzania and South Africa have been entirely different. In Tanzania Allan and Devon on Safariwe visited the southern Serengeti region during the Great Migration and so saw tens of thousands of wildebeests and zebras plus half a dozen separate prides of lions who were feasting on them. We also visited Ngorongoro Crater, a picturesque setting with almost theme park-like perfection – and yet entirely natural. In Tanzania, the vistas were vast and it was easy to feel you were on the set of the Lion King.

In South Africa, our safari experience is very different, in part because it takes place in a private reserve. While the area seems huge, the expanses are nowhere near as large as in Tanzania. On the plus side, the guides and trackers pretty much know which animals are in the area and it is simply a matter of finding them. Even better, because we were allowed to drive at night (unlike in the Tanzanian national parks), we were able to be out when the animals, especially the predators, were most active. The whole experience was like a search for National Geographic-style action sequences, keeping us all on the edge of our seats for the drives.

Both safari experiences have a few things in common. The local staff are exceptional. The lodges and tented safari camps are luxurious. The food is excellent and the service impeccable. You really feel as if you are an English baron or baroness out on an Africa safari in the late 1800s!

We are just now setting our schedule for 2011 and our two African trips are planned for February (Tanzania) and October (South Africa). Leave a comment on this blog post if you are interested to join us!

Two Tragedies: Peru and Chile

March 3rd, 2010

Two of my favorite countries suffered tragedies within the last month. Peru was struck by massive flooding in the beginning of February and Chile just experienced a massive earthquake followed by a tsunami.

Trekkers & staff by Kathryn MoeThe flooding in Peru was in the news mostly because almost 1000 travelers were stranded at Machu Picchu due to washing out of the train line. The travelers were rescued, the train is under repair, and the Inca Trail was untouched. The real tragedy, however, was the devastation to villages and fields in the Sacred Valley, which is low-lying land along the Urubamba River.

In Chile, a massive 8.8 earthquake hit off the coast of southern Chile. This was followed by a tsunami that wiped out several villages along the coast. The death toll as of this writing has reached 799 people and the economic cost of reconstruction will be staggering. Luckily, none of our Chilean tour areas were affected much and our local guide and other partners are all safe.

Including Haiti’s 7.0 earthquake, that makes three big disasters this year. We all want to help and those of us at Zephyr received a personal plea from our Peruvian partners to help the small native village of Cachiccata, located in the Sacred Valley and the home of most of our porters and cooks on the Inca Trail. It turns out their water system was destroyed and their crops are now in peril. For $1500, we can purchase a new electric water system that will be a vast improvement on the old, destroyed one. Want to help? We will match your donations up to $750. For full details, see our new blog at www.IncaTrailHiking.com/blog.

Mount Kilimanjaro: Six Days of Wonderful Trekking …

February 9th, 2010

… followed by a hell of a slog. I promised Zephyr’s Facebook page fans I would give this blog post that name and it does more or less reflect our experiences on Mount Kilimanjaro.

1 Kili in the distanceTen hardy Zephyr alumni joined our first-ever trip to Tanzania to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. We all met in Moshi, Tanzania after a very long flight via Amsterdam on KLM. Tanzania was hot but the Kilimanjaro-brand beers were cold and the view of the mountain from our hotel windows was outstanding.

Our route was the seven-day Lemosho Route, which to me is the best route of six up the mountain. Most people take either the five-day Marangu Route or the six-day Machame route but the Lemosho Route provides days of fantastic trekking with few others around and a more gradual ascent of the mountain.

3 Early TrekkingIn fact, I was shocked at how nice the trekking actually was. My most recent mountain climbing experience was on Aconcagua, where I spent 13 days on the mountain with two friends and found most of it a chore. This was different. For one thing, the scenery was very pretty and we all enjoyed our climb through a tropical forest, rugged open moorlands, and finally an alpine desert environment.

It also made a difference that we were pampered on this trip. The Tanzanian government has smartly instituted restrictions on climbers, requiring everyone to get a guide and most to use porters. Our group of 11 had – are you ready for this? – one lead guide, four assistant guides, two cooks, two servers, two camp staff, and 28 porters for a total of 39 Tanzanian support staff!

5 PortersThis might seem excessive but pretty much everyone on the mountain is traveling in a similar style. Our group had a cooking tent and eating tent, tables and chairs, and food for 50 people for a week. Our guides were excellent and the porters, who are heroic, carried 20-kilo (44 pound) packs, often times on their heads!

Our seven days on the mountain can really be broken into three phases: five days of pleasant trekking, one horrendously-long summit day, and the final morning exit. (I believe other, shorter routes up the mountain are harder and less pleasant on the initial days.)

The crux of the whole week was the summit day. Because our group was moving at different speeds, we broke into two groups. We had been going to sleep earlier and earlier all week and the evening before the summit climb most of us dropped off to sleep by 7:00 PM. Group A then woke up at 11:00 PM, grabbed a light breakfast/snack, and started for the mountain at midnight. It was cold but not excessively cold. Worst was the wind, absent all week, but which now decided to make an appearance with continuous blasts.

12 Starting the descentGroup B, which I joined, woke at midnight and started at 1:00 AM. To get an idea of how fast we hiked up the mountain, walk across the room at home or at work. Now, do it again at half pace. One more time, cutting your speed in half again. Because of the high altitude and lack of oxygen reaching our systems, that is the pace we moved. Even then, the summit hike was difficult. The strong wind made things miserable, some in the group felt nauseous, and all of us just wanted to get to the top. Still, there were no technical parts at all and so willpower was really the name of the game.

The plan worked well and our two groups merged together just before the crater rim. The sun rose on our right, a beacon of light convincing us the night was not actually without end, as we had feared. We eventually topped out on the crater rim and none of us considered turning around at that point, with only 45 minutes remaining to reach the high point of the mountain along a gradual ascent on top of the crater rim.

11c Allan on topFinally: success at 19,340 feet above sea level! Of course, like most mountains it was freezing on top and most of the group suffered through a quick group photo before heading down. I did stay on top for 15-20 minutes, taking photos of others and making sure our group was okay. In all, 10 of 11 of our group made it to the top, with only one person having to turn around early on the summit climb. (I am convinced this was due to a bout of traveler’s disease earlier in the week, which can sap one’s energy.)

My conclusions? First, the mountain is worth climbing. In addition to some excellent trekking, the opportunity to summit the Roof of Africa is something you should not pass up. Second, this is achievable by many people. Our group of experienced Zephyr alumni aged 17 to 61 was strong but many others can succeed as well. In fact, if we have enough interest, we might change the 2011 itinerary to include eight days on the mountain, which would make the summit day that much easier. Third, you should travel with Zephyr Adventures! I was very impressed how the service provided by Zephyr and our local staff was equivalent to that of other, more expensive operators. In fact, on the plane ride home one of our climb participants favorably compared her experience against that of someone who joined one of the more famous Kili outfitters – this outfitter costs 50% more and doesn’t even provide an American guide on the trip!

We will set our 2011 trip date soon, so let me know by commenting here if you wish to join us next year. Coming soon – a post on part two of the trip, the safari!