Many, many adventure travelers have dreamed of hiking on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. I have done so twice and can confirm it is one of the most amazing active travel destinations in the world. However, it was only on my most recent trip to Peru that I realized the Inca Trail that everyone hikes is not actually the original trail to Machu Picchu!
First a little background. The Incas were a small tribe located in what is now Peru before their 9th Emperor, Pachacuti, in the year 1438 began a series of conquests of neighboring peoples. Pachacuti built a network of roads and waystations to connect his growing empire. He also built three royal enclaves in the outskirts of Cusco, one of which was Machu Picchu, essentially a royal resort built in a phenomenal location high above the Urubamba River.
To reach Machu Picchu, the Incan ruler traveled along stone pathways from Cusco into the Sacred Valley, past Ollantaytambo, along the Urubamba River, and up to the ridge where Machu Picchu is perched. This was the natural route, since the Urubamba River had carved out a valley that allowed the trail to be relatively flat most of the way. This trail, however, is not what the thousands of trekkers use each year to reach Machu Picchu.
Instead, trekkers on the “Inca Trail” use an alternate trail that climbs uphill away from the Urubamba River, crosses Dead Woman’s pass, follows high-altitude ridges, and finally descends dramatically to Machu Picchu. This path was probably built by the Incas in part to avoid rainy season slides on the lower path along the river and in part simply because the Incas built not just one trail but a network of roads connecting all their principal cities. The trail most people now know as the Inca Trail was simply an alternate, longer, and more difficult route to Machu Picchu, one Pachacuti certainly didn’t plan on using when he had Machu Picchu built.
So why don’t people trek along the Original Inca Trail? Certainly the higher trail has a number of benefits but I think, more than anything, it is simply tradition. By contrast, the Original (Royal) Inca Trail also has several advantages.
- It is much flatter and therefore easier, especially for those with knee problems.
- It is at a much lower altitude and therefore avoids problems with altitude sickness that affect many people on the Classic Inca Trail.
- It is practically unused; travelers on this trail will see few other visitors.
- There are more opportunities to see birds, animals, and flowers than on the higher Classic Trail.
- The campsites even have cold showers!
Don’t get me wrong – I love the Classic Trail. For those of you looking for a challenge or who want the spectacular views that come with hiking up to almost 14,000 feet, I suggest you stick with the Classic Inca Trail. However, if you have always wanted to visit Peru and Machu Picchu, would prefer to do it in Incan style by getting a first amazing glimpse of the ruins from the Sun Gate after a four-day hike, but don’t think your legs, lungs, or heart can get you over the high passes of the normal route, the Original (Royal) Inca Trail is the perfect option.
Both trips offer isolated ruins, outstanding service from our local guides and porters, and an incredible opportunity to learn about the Inca’s culture and history. Both trips are lifetime experiences you will never forget.