Archive for the ‘Tibet’ Category

Dekay in Lhasa, Tibet Doing Well

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

Some regular readers of this blog might remember that back in 2006 we at Zephyr Adventures sponsored a young Tibetan girl to get educated in Lhasa. My post from that year read:

“My personal highlight this year was a conversation I had with one of the three village elders and his wife, son, and granddaughter. The young girl had finished her four years of education in the village and, lacking money to attend the nearby school, had no future but threshing barley and tending sheep. While life in the village is primitive but good, not everyone wants to stay and when I asked the granddaughter (with our guide translating) what she wanted to do the reply was “study English in Lhasa”. I knew I could help her and decided to “sponsor” her education.”

Dekay in Lhasa

I wanted to give you an update in Dekay’s own words from just last week:

“Last month I have joined in an examination, and if I could pass the examination I can get a job in a foreign language training school  (I can be a teacher there,I have to teach for the kits at the age of from six to eleven). Fortunately I have past the examination and the day before yesterday I went there for an interview, so I have past it too!  I got a notice from that school this afternoon !  I will be teaching English to young students,(from  1st grade to 6 th) . There are many lovely students both Chinese and Tibetan in that school, and I love them very much! and I like this job very much because I love those kits and I can learn many things from other teachers,so I think I can grow up faster. I will work hard and try to help others!”

How cool! The young girl we helped three years ago has moved from her village and now has a job teaching English in Lhasa. Obviously, she still has a bit of English learning to do on her own but I think you will agree the larger point here is we travelers can make a huge difference in one person’s life … and she or he can pass it on to others. (more…)

Boycott China

Thursday, March 20th, 2008

I have focused only on Zephyr’s tours in this blog. Rightly so, too, since that is the blog’s purpose and why readers spend time reading it. At this point, however, I feel I need to speak out in support of Tibetans against the crackdown that is happening in that country.Boycott China

And “country” it should be, although at the moment it is a militarily-controlled part of China. Most people who can at least place Tibet on the map probably have a vague idea that China occupied the country some years ago. That is true – and more.

I love the Chinese. I have visited China half a dozen times and love both the country and the people. Since I first started visiting China about ten years ago, the economy has visibly rocketed and people have become more open and less fearful of being themselves, although we still limit our tour group conversations about topics such as Tiananmen Square to the privacy of our tour bus. One thing I do find, however, is that the Chinese people – even those who are well educated – have a pretty strong bias in favor of China’s world policies relating to Tibet, Taiwan, Darfur, etc.

That means that on the one hand, the Chinese themselves are still under a yoke without a true ability to express themselves publicly, vote in real elections, or advocate for change. On the other hand, they have been fed enough propaganda they they support their country’s purchase of Sudanese oil, the military threat against Taiwan, and the military occupation of Tibet.

Because military occupation it is – Tibet was invaded by Chinese troops in 1950 and has been occupied ever since. And what is my impression of the Tibetan people? Having been to Tibet about an equal number of times, I have invariably found them warm, loving, and peaceful. After reading this blog post, take the time to read my other posts on Tibet and you’ll begin to get an idea about that country.

The Tibetans are protesting now, in sometimes violent ways, because they are desperate. The Chinese have occupied their country for 48 years; they are not allowed to mention or have a photo of their spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama; and perhaps most insidious their culture and language is being slowly marginalized as the Chinese government promotes Chinese immigration into Tibet. This is all true – and all vehemently denied by China.

This is a world tragedy and world governments do essentially nothing while it happens. How can we the people have elected representatives who know about this injustice and still do nothing? The truth is, China is powerful, no one wants to offend them, and “realpolitek” leads our elected leaders to ignore the issue.

That is simply unacceptable and we, the people of the world, should do something about this. We have the power, too. China cares badly about its image and protesting in front of Chinese embassies around the world would help. We won’t do that, though, since each of us has too many other things to worry about in life. What WILL work and IS doable is to boycott Chinese products and demand that US companies do the same. It worked in South Africa and it can work in China.

Here is what I suggest you do.

1. Spend one hour to get on the internet and learn about the tragedy of Tibet. Educate yourself.

2. Go to www.BoycottMadeInChina.org, click on Join the Campaign, and sign the Pledge form. Pledge to yourself that before you purchase any material goods between now and the end of the Olympics, you will look for the “made in” tag and not purchase it if it is made in China.

3. Send an email to your friends and ask them to go to the boycott site or, better yet, to this page for the background material first.

I sponsor a young Tibetan woman for whom I pay school tuition so she can have a good life. I have an excellent friend in Lhasa, our Tibetan guide, whose father and brother were killed by the Chinese in past protests. I am afraid for their safety.

It is a world shame that the Tibet people are losing their homeland and the rest of us do nothing.

Update on our Friends in Tibet

Tuesday, October 9th, 2007

Exactly one year ago I posted an entry titled Tibet Trekking. Scroll down to read the post. In that entry, I related the story of Dekay, the granddaughter of one of the elders of the village we visit on our trek each year. I had met her in the village and after a few translated discussions through our local guide Tenzin, decided to sponsor her for a year of English school in Lhasa, the capital, where she had never been.

What a life change that must have been for her! Would she miss her village? Would she study hard and learn English? Would life in the capital change her?

I did not return to Tibet this year, instead sending our trustworthy and accomplished guide Kathy in my place. Kathy had been an in-training guide last year with me and so knew the tour well. I asked Kathy to meet with Dekay and to give her my gift of another year’s English school tuition if she judged all to be well. Here is her report:

“Dekay took her first day off from school in a year and spent it walking around with our group on our first full day in Lhasa. It was amazing to actually be communicating with her in English. She has obviously been working very hard and says she often spends weekend days in the Barkhor listening to tour guides speaking to their groups in English or conversing with friendly English-speaking travelers when she can.

On our last day in Lhasa, after the trek, Tenzin took me to visit Dekay’s Aunt in the tea shop where she works and Dekay sometimes helps out. I drank tea until I thought I could hold no more and Tenzin translated for us while we chatted. Then Dekay, Tenzin and I went to see Dekay’s school. It looked very run down by Western standards, with peeling paint and sparse classrooms, although they had painted cute motivational sayings in bright colors on the wall in English like “It’s easy! It’s fun!”

Dekay showed me her English book. It was book 5 of a series of workbooks. They do a lesson per day, which seems pretty fast. We also ran into her teacher in the street near the school. He says she is one of the best students. He is also young and handsome and I later asked Dekay if she thought he was cute and she just giggled. She’s a sweetheart and I’m happy to report that city life does not seem to have corrupted her at all.

Next we visited a stationery shop and I bought pens and pads of paper for her whole class of 40 students, plus some extra supplies just for her (pencil box, highlighter, etc.) and a coloring set for her Aunt’s young children. I also bought a globe for her teacher and showed her where you and I live. It was hard to get her to select things for herself. Shopping for her was probably the highlight of my trip.”

Needless to say, on my behalf Kathy paid the next year of school tuition for Dekay. Recently, Dekay has obtained an email address and we write once per week or so. For Dekay, it is an excellent opportunity to practice English. For me, it is a reminder of my friends in Tibet and how the world is so small despite our differences.

Note: I did not supply photos of Dekay for this post as it is sadly still best in China-occupied Tibet to downplay contact with locals. The photo is of our group of trekkers with guide Kathy (lower right).

Tibet Trekking

Monday, October 9th, 2006

Our group of 11 trekkers and three guides were walking through a small nunnery above Lhasa. Although we had seen other tourists at the large, popular monasteries we had visited in the morning, at this nunnery we were the only foreigners around.

Walking into the large prayer room, we saw a young nun who expressed some interest in our group. Talking through our guide and translator, we were able to ask her about her daily chores, when she had come to the nunnery, and even what she thought of her life as a nun. She took us back to her room for a private tour of a typical nun’s quarters, offered us yak butter tea, and showed us forbidden photos of the Dalai Lama.

Our group of trekkers was so impressed with this young woman’s dedication to her calling, some of them wanted to give some money to support her in her hard existence. Our guide said it was okay to do so, and several of them placed Chinese bank notes on her bed. Despite the poverty nuns know every day and the comparative wealth each of us had (just the cost of getting to Tibet is a year’s salary for most Tibetans), the young woman tried to decline the money, saying “You have traveled a long way and must need this money more than I.”

This is the true spirit of Tibet. The people are friendly, warm, and caring. The country is ruggedly beautiful and the culture, laced through with Buddhism, is intoxicating.

This was my fourth trip to Tibet and, to be honest, I was not looking forward to going. It has been a crazy summer of travel (just see my other blog postings), and I could have really used two weeks at home! However, as soon as I arrived in Beijing where we would meet the group, I had changed my mind. Once we all got off the plane in Tibet and I saw our Tibetan guide and now my good friend, I was filled with the same sense of wonder and peace as always. We spent the next three days learning about Tibet, visiting monasteries, wandering Lhasa’s center, and acclimatizing to the altitude.

Of course, the peace and serenity that comes with Tibetan Buddhism is only half the story. Tibet is an occupied land and the occupiers, China, are forcing themselves on unwilling hosts. We heard stories about monasteries destroyed during the Culutural Revolution, people thrown into jail for peacefully protesting, and young men who had fled over the Himalaya to escape (as had the Dalai Lam) into India. While these stories made us sad, at the same time they added to our experience. Our tour was not just a vacation but an education and we were all grateful to be in school.

The highlight of our trip is our four-day yak-supported trek and the highlight of the trek, for many, is our visit to a small village not reached by any roads. Our groups have been visiting this village for years and we always join together to purchase a gift for the village. This year, we purchased a large tent for community festivals and our entire group mingled with the Tibetans as we spread out the tent, took photos, toured local houses, and drank chang (barley beer) in celebration of our arrival.

My personal highlight this year was a conversation I had with one of the three village elders and his wife, son, and granddaughter. The young girl had finished her four years of education in the village and, lacking money to attend the nearby school, had no future but threshing barley and tending sheep. While life in the village is primitive but good, not everyone wants to stay and when I asked the granddaughter what she wanted to do the reply was “study English in Lhasa”. How much our groups had affected her thinking, I don’t know.

I knew I could help her and decided to “sponsor” her education. Three days later I was at an English school in Lhasa with our guide. The girl had walked six kilometers with her grandfather to the nearest road, taken a tractor to the nearby paved road, and hopped on a bus to Lhasa. She was intent on changing her life and a day’s journey to an unfamiliar city was no hurdle. We registered her for five hours of English per day (plus three hours of Chinese) and a year’s worth of education cost me $250. She was estatic, her grandfather was thankful, my friend and guide was proud, and I was perhaps the most emotional of all, knowing I had helped change a young life.

We had originally planned to remove the trekking portion of our Tibet trip in 2007, giving those of you who don’t want to sleep in a tent a chance to visit Tibet with us. However, after again experiencing the wonders of rural Tibet, we have decided to add it as an “optional four-day extension” to our standard trip. You can now choose the regular 10-day Tibet and China Hiking Adventure (including two days on the Great Wall and the rest of the time in Tibet) or a 14-day trip that also includes a trek. Both are amazing.