Archive for the ‘Tanzania’ Category

African Safaris: Tanzania versus South Africa

Saturday, March 6th, 2010

As an adventure travel company, one of the things I have always said is “we only run active tours”. No bus tours for me, thank you. However, I must admit our two African safaris stretch that a bit.

Lion and Zephyr Landrover in Tanzania

In Africa, we run a “hike, wine, and safari” tour that is absolutely incredible.  And just last month in Tanzania we added a five-day safari to the back end of our Mount Kilimanjaro trek.

Now, safaris themselves are amazing. I am a pretty jaded traveler, having seen many places and sights around the world, but I can truly say a safari is a top-five experience of a lifetime. The thrill of seeing animals in action, the beauty of being in the great African outdoors, and the joy of discussing each day’s sightings with your fellow safari participants is something everyone should experience once.

Plus, we do two things to enhance the experience for active travelers. First, we schedule the safari as part of a tour, specifically by adding in hiking (South Africa) and the Kili climb (Tanzania). Second, we get out of the vehicle to do short walking safaris twice on each trip, which both gets us a little exercise and gives us a distinctly unique viewpoint.

My experiences in Tanzania and South Africa have been entirely different. In Tanzania Allan and Devon on Safariwe visited the southern Serengeti region during the Great Migration and so saw tens of thousands of wildebeests and zebras plus half a dozen separate prides of lions who were feasting on them. We also visited Ngorongoro Crater, a picturesque setting with almost theme park-like perfection – and yet entirely natural. In Tanzania, the vistas were vast and it was easy to feel you were on the set of the Lion King.

In South Africa, our safari experience is very different, in part because it takes place in a private reserve. While the area seems huge, the expanses are nowhere near as large as in Tanzania. On the plus side, the guides and trackers pretty much know which animals are in the area and it is simply a matter of finding them. Even better, because we were allowed to drive at night (unlike in the Tanzanian national parks), we were able to be out when the animals, especially the predators, were most active. The whole experience was like a search for National Geographic-style action sequences, keeping us all on the edge of our seats for the drives.

Both safari experiences have a few things in common. The local staff are exceptional. The lodges and tented safari camps are luxurious. The food is excellent and the service impeccable. You really feel as if you are an English baron or baroness out on an Africa safari in the late 1800s!

We are just now setting our schedule for 2011 and our two African trips are planned for February (Tanzania) and October (South Africa). Leave a comment on this blog post if you are interested to join us!

Mount Kilimanjaro: Six Days of Wonderful Trekking …

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

… followed by a hell of a slog. I promised Zephyr’s Facebook page fans I would give this blog post that name and it does more or less reflect our experiences on Mount Kilimanjaro.

1 Kili in the distanceTen hardy Zephyr alumni joined our first-ever trip to Tanzania to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. We all met in Moshi, Tanzania after a very long flight via Amsterdam on KLM. Tanzania was hot but the Kilimanjaro-brand beers were cold and the view of the mountain from our hotel windows was outstanding.

Our route was the seven-day Lemosho Route, which to me is the best route of six up the mountain. Most people take either the five-day Marangu Route or the six-day Machame route but the Lemosho Route provides days of fantastic trekking with few others around and a more gradual ascent of the mountain.

3 Early TrekkingIn fact, I was shocked at how nice the trekking actually was. My most recent mountain climbing experience was on Aconcagua, where I spent 13 days on the mountain with two friends and found most of it a chore. This was different. For one thing, the scenery was very pretty and we all enjoyed our climb through a tropical forest, rugged open moorlands, and finally an alpine desert environment.

It also made a difference that we were pampered on this trip. The Tanzanian government has smartly instituted restrictions on climbers, requiring everyone to get a guide and most to use porters. Our group of 11 had – are you ready for this? – one lead guide, four assistant guides, two cooks, two servers, two camp staff, and 28 porters for a total of 39 Tanzanian support staff!

5 PortersThis might seem excessive but pretty much everyone on the mountain is traveling in a similar style. Our group had a cooking tent and eating tent, tables and chairs, and food for 50 people for a week. Our guides were excellent and the porters, who are heroic, carried 20-kilo (44 pound) packs, often times on their heads!

Our seven days on the mountain can really be broken into three phases: five days of pleasant trekking, one horrendously-long summit day, and the final morning exit. (I believe other, shorter routes up the mountain are harder and less pleasant on the initial days.)

The crux of the whole week was the summit day. Because our group was moving at different speeds, we broke into two groups. We had been going to sleep earlier and earlier all week and the evening before the summit climb most of us dropped off to sleep by 7:00 PM. Group A then woke up at 11:00 PM, grabbed a light breakfast/snack, and started for the mountain at midnight. It was cold but not excessively cold. Worst was the wind, absent all week, but which now decided to make an appearance with continuous blasts.

12 Starting the descentGroup B, which I joined, woke at midnight and started at 1:00 AM. To get an idea of how fast we hiked up the mountain, walk across the room at home or at work. Now, do it again at half pace. One more time, cutting your speed in half again. Because of the high altitude and lack of oxygen reaching our systems, that is the pace we moved. Even then, the summit hike was difficult. The strong wind made things miserable, some in the group felt nauseous, and all of us just wanted to get to the top. Still, there were no technical parts at all and so willpower was really the name of the game.

The plan worked well and our two groups merged together just before the crater rim. The sun rose on our right, a beacon of light convincing us the night was not actually without end, as we had feared. We eventually topped out on the crater rim and none of us considered turning around at that point, with only 45 minutes remaining to reach the high point of the mountain along a gradual ascent on top of the crater rim.

11c Allan on topFinally: success at 19,340 feet above sea level! Of course, like most mountains it was freezing on top and most of the group suffered through a quick group photo before heading down. I did stay on top for 15-20 minutes, taking photos of others and making sure our group was okay. In all, 10 of 11 of our group made it to the top, with only one person having to turn around early on the summit climb. (I am convinced this was due to a bout of traveler’s disease earlier in the week, which can sap one’s energy.)

My conclusions? First, the mountain is worth climbing. In addition to some excellent trekking, the opportunity to summit the Roof of Africa is something you should not pass up. Second, this is achievable by many people. Our group of experienced Zephyr alumni aged 17 to 61 was strong but many others can succeed as well. In fact, if we have enough interest, we might change the 2011 itinerary to include eight days on the mountain, which would make the summit day that much easier. Third, you should travel with Zephyr Adventures! I was very impressed how the service provided by Zephyr and our local staff was equivalent to that of other, more expensive operators. In fact, on the plane ride home one of our climb participants favorably compared her experience against that of someone who joined one of the more famous Kili outfitters – this outfitter costs 50% more and doesn’t even provide an American guide on the trip!

We will set our 2011 trip date soon, so let me know by commenting here if you wish to join us next year. Coming soon – a post on part two of the trip, the safari!

Zephyrite Roberta Perry Summits Kilimanjaro

Tuesday, October 20th, 2009

I made it to Uhuru web sizeRoberta Perry is a four-time Zephyr alumnus from New York. From my experience traveling with her, I would say she is a good athlete with a strong constitution who, like many people, tries hard to stay in shape as she cruises through her 40s. In short, I think she is a pretty typical Zephyr traveler.

This past July, Roberta and her two siblings joined another group of six travelers and summitted Mount Kilimanjaro. They took the same Lemosho Route that our Zephyr group will take in late January. However, her group went up what is known as “The Breach”, the most technical aspect of any of the routes. We will skip that by walking a bit farther around this area. Roberta was kind enough to answer a few questions about her climb:R, M and L at crater camp web size

What made you plan a trip to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro? My brother suggested the trip for his 50th birthday. He saw the movie “To the Roof of Africa” and was totally hooked.  He knew all he had to do was ask and we were there. Reaching the summit was spectacular. Doing it with my siblings, unbelievable!

Were you nervous about your ability to reach the summit? To be honest, not really. Having skated with Zephyr on the Mineral Belt trail, at 11,000+ feet, I knew I was going to acclimatize fairly easily. Having the extra days and the slower pace made it so much better, too. Most of our group took diamox to help any altitude issues.

Did you train in advance? I did some training beforehand, but nothing like what doing a similar type of  hike could have prepared me for. Stair climbing was my best training. There was not a staircase I wouldn’t climb in the few months prior. Also, I walked an average of 2-3 miles a day, every day (thank my dog for that).  I skated as much as possible the 2 months prior for stamina.  There are many regimens out there, but I found doing what I liked to do made it easier to do it more often.

Was the trip harder or easier than you expected? It was harder than I expected during the rock scrambles and the Lava Tower climb, which I totally recommend as great practice for the Breach. There were a few moments of “what did we just do?” on the Breach, worn with an expression of incredulousness, however, the majority of the climb was what I anticipated or easier.  I believe it’s all about the stamina, the acclimatizing, the one foot in front of the other mentality and the “pole pole”(swahili for slow) pace the guides make sure you stay at. It’s about the will to make it to the top.

What was the highlight of the climb? The staff, the laughter, the camaraderie. The fact that all 9 of us made it to the summit. The fact that I got to indeed see, touch and taste “The Snows of Kilimanjaro”.

Anything else you want to share with potential Zephyr travelers interested in climbing Kili? The people of Tanzania are some of the hardest working, nicest people around. Hakuna Matata is a real expression and the townspeople use it all the time. It was harder coming down than up, because you are moving at a faster pace, and your legs/knees are not as used to that type of down climbing.  The climb was cold, dirty, smelly, difficult, and exhausting. It was also amazing, exhilarating, brilliant, educational and fantastic. I would not have changed a moment! The experts say that by 2020 there won’t be snow left at the peak. I suggest to everyone who wants to see the snow for yourself, do this trip soon! There is no doubt you will love the trip and the experience!!

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Allan’s note: I have struggled in the past few weeks when asked by some of our Zephyr travelers how they would do on Kilimanjaro and think Robert’s viewpoint is an excellent addition to my own. My favorite part of her answer is “It’s about the will to make it to the top.”

If you have any questions for Roberta, post them here on this blog and I am sure she would love to answer them. We’d love to have you join us in Tanzania come January!