Archive for the ‘South Africa’ Category

African Safaris: Tanzania versus South Africa

Saturday, March 6th, 2010

As an adventure travel company, one of the things I have always said is “we only run active tours”. No bus tours for me, thank you. However, I must admit our two African safaris stretch that a bit.

Lion and Zephyr Landrover in Tanzania

In Africa, we run a “hike, wine, and safari” tour that is absolutely incredible.  And just last month in Tanzania we added a five-day safari to the back end of our Mount Kilimanjaro trek.

Now, safaris themselves are amazing. I am a pretty jaded traveler, having seen many places and sights around the world, but I can truly say a safari is a top-five experience of a lifetime. The thrill of seeing animals in action, the beauty of being in the great African outdoors, and the joy of discussing each day’s sightings with your fellow safari participants is something everyone should experience once.

Plus, we do two things to enhance the experience for active travelers. First, we schedule the safari as part of a tour, specifically by adding in hiking (South Africa) and the Kili climb (Tanzania). Second, we get out of the vehicle to do short walking safaris twice on each trip, which both gets us a little exercise and gives us a distinctly unique viewpoint.

My experiences in Tanzania and South Africa have been entirely different. In Tanzania Allan and Devon on Safariwe visited the southern Serengeti region during the Great Migration and so saw tens of thousands of wildebeests and zebras plus half a dozen separate prides of lions who were feasting on them. We also visited Ngorongoro Crater, a picturesque setting with almost theme park-like perfection – and yet entirely natural. In Tanzania, the vistas were vast and it was easy to feel you were on the set of the Lion King.

In South Africa, our safari experience is very different, in part because it takes place in a private reserve. While the area seems huge, the expanses are nowhere near as large as in Tanzania. On the plus side, the guides and trackers pretty much know which animals are in the area and it is simply a matter of finding them. Even better, because we were allowed to drive at night (unlike in the Tanzanian national parks), we were able to be out when the animals, especially the predators, were most active. The whole experience was like a search for National Geographic-style action sequences, keeping us all on the edge of our seats for the drives.

Both safari experiences have a few things in common. The local staff are exceptional. The lodges and tented safari camps are luxurious. The food is excellent and the service impeccable. You really feel as if you are an English baron or baroness out on an Africa safari in the late 1800s!

We are just now setting our schedule for 2011 and our two African trips are planned for February (Tanzania) and October (South Africa). Leave a comment on this blog post if you are interested to join us!

South Africa: Three Tours in One

Tuesday, October 21st, 2008

The great thing about our South Africa Adventure is it is three trips in one. One part is the wonderful city of Cape Town. We stay in what I think is the best small hotel in the city, the Cape Heritage, and have time to explore both downtown and the new waterfront area. We also hike up Table Mountain, giving us incredible 360 degree views of the area, and visit the Cape Peninsula, where we hike, watch a penguin colony, and visit a winery.

We then move to the small university town of Stellenbosch, where we stay at a fantastic hotel right in the middle of town. Stellenbosch is full of students but also gets its share of tourists and so has the restaurants, pubs, and shops to serve both groups. Stellenbosch is also capital of the South Africa wine industry and we explore the region on foot with three fantastic hikes through vineyards.

We then fly to the eastern part of the country to our small lodge at the private Thornybush game reserve, where we spend three days doing game drives and bush walks.

I just returned from South Africa yesterday and it is our experience in Thornybush I most want to relate. This was my second safari experience and I was not sure it would match the incredible success of the first one. It surpassed that trip.

In fact, it is hard to relate in words or pictures exactly how amazing a safari can be. Said Eddie Lee, a well-traveled Zephyr alumnus who was on his 11th trip last week, “This was the most amazing experience of my life. Everyone who can afford to do so should take a safari before they die.”

Let me just list the animals we saw on our final morning game drive, when our group chose to wake up at the early hour of 4:00 AM when the bush is active:

  • Four lionesses playing in a dried out stream bed.
  • A male lion who did his morning roar while standing not 10 feet from our vehicle.
  • A jaguar breakfasting on her catch while in a tree above us.
  • A giraffe that got spooked by our group and ran off, quickly covering ground with her 15-foot strides.
  • A cheetah mother and her three pups, stalking through the bush as she attempted to safely move them from one den to another.

It was absolutely amazing. Yes, our South Africa Adventure is a Wine Adventure and we do hike, visit vineyards, and taste wines in the wine country. But South Africa offers so much more and we do it all on our nine-day trip. We can only take 16 on this trip so sign up now for next October’s trip.

(The photos are of three separate hikes: Table Mountain, the Stellenbosch-area vineyards, and Thornybush reserve.)

South Africa Safari

Sunday, December 30th, 2007

“Oh my gosh. Look at that elephant.”

We were on the second day of our three-day South Africa safari and participating in a “bush walk”. My girlfriend Devon and I were joined by one other couple and our khaki-wearing, rifle-toting guide Jonathan.
Now, seeing an elephant on a safari is a common event. However, this elephant caught us by surprise, ambling towards us from over the horizon as our attention was on a nearby watering hole, our minds speculating whether the water buffalo we were watching would get close enough to the crocodile lurking in the water to create some excitement.

Now, however, our thoughts and eyes were diverted, flicking back and forth from the watering hole to the big full elephant coming for a drink, still far away but certainly impressive with his ears waving like flags in a soft breeze.

The funny thing was, either my geometry was off or the elephant was angling more towards us than the pool. “Now don’t get excited”, said Jonathan. “But I want all of you to very casually move behind that bush.” Clearly, Jonathan’s geometry calculation was the same as mine and he was wondering about the elephant’s intentions also.

A few more minutes and the distance was closing. The elephant was clearly moving more towards us than the watering hole. “Now, again, I want you to move very casually from behind that bush to this tree”, instructed Jonathan. “Get in single file behind the tree and minimize the elephant’s view of us.” I asked later and Jonathan told me the bush was good for concealing us but the tree made for better protection.

At this point, all of us were at least nervous. Except perhaps Jonathan. Devon was first in line. With her face buried in the tree, she had given up any thought of watching the elephant. I was next, poking my head out to keep on eye on the several tons of flesh ambling on a path that seemed to be directly towards us.

Ultimately, the elephant swerved and headed away from us and towards the pond, passing no more than 20 feet from our tree. We were all relieved and excited and I am sure all of us (except, again, Jonathan) still tell the story over a year later. It was an excellent example of how incredibly memorable a safari can be.

This was the only safari I have done in my life, which seems a little strange in hindsight since I have traveled over much of the world and have been to many places multiple times. I think I had always felt safaris were, well, overrated. A conversation I had just a few days ago confirmed this. I was telling my friend Rob, an avid traveler and outdoors man, about the elephant experience and he listened with a questioning look on his face. “Are safaris really that fun?” he asked.

Safaris are not overrated. They are an incredible experience for everyone … and you don’t have to interact on foot with elephants to enjoy them.

On our scheduled October 2008 South Africa Adventure, we will spend three days and two nights at the Chapungu Bush Lodge in a private reserve near Kruger National Park. The main game viewing is done on bush drives, in a very safe Landrover that allows us to cover long distances and go where the animals are active. These drives are amazing and will rate up there with any vacation you have done.

The foot safaris are offered each afternoon and are entirely optional. Me? I thought the foot safaris were the best part of the experience. I loved being out in the open, knowing I was unlikely to encounter any real danger but still excited at no longer being at the top of the food chain. (It was also nice to get a little exercise.) However, the foot safaris are optional so you can choose to participate or not.

Whatever you decide, you will love the creature comforts of our tented lodge. The meals are superb, the wine flows, the staff is nice beyond what we expect, and the tales we tell at night reflect the incredible sights and experiences we live each day.

P.S. For information on the active wine portion of our South Africa Adventure, see my Travels With Wine blog.