Archive for the ‘Peru’ Category

Two Tragedies: Peru and Chile

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Two of my favorite countries suffered tragedies within the last month. Peru was struck by massive flooding in the beginning of February and Chile just experienced a massive earthquake followed by a tsunami.

Trekkers & staff by Kathryn MoeThe flooding in Peru was in the news mostly because almost 1000 travelers were stranded at Machu Picchu due to washing out of the train line. The travelers were rescued, the train is under repair, and the Inca Trail was untouched. The real tragedy, however, was the devastation to villages and fields in the Sacred Valley, which is low-lying land along the Urubamba River.

In Chile, a massive 8.8 earthquake hit off the coast of southern Chile. This was followed by a tsunami that wiped out several villages along the coast. The death toll as of this writing has reached 799 people and the economic cost of reconstruction will be staggering. Luckily, none of our Chilean tour areas were affected much and our local guide and other partners are all safe.

Including Haiti’s 7.0 earthquake, that makes three big disasters this year. We all want to help and those of us at Zephyr received a personal plea from our Peruvian partners to help the small native village of Cachiccata, located in the Sacred Valley and the home of most of our porters and cooks on the Inca Trail. It turns out their water system was destroyed and their crops are now in peril. For $1500, we can purchase a new electric water system that will be a vast improvement on the old, destroyed one. Want to help? We will match your donations up to $750. For full details, see our new blog at www.IncaTrailHiking.com/blog.

Judging the Firestone Chef Challenge

Friday, January 15th, 2010

FirstonepathfinderTwo posts about food in one week? Unheard of for me but true with this post. Some of you might know we have co-organized the Wine Bloggers Conference for two years and in 2010 also will be co-organizing the International Food Bloggers Conference with our partners at Foodista. Perhaps I have food and wine on the mind.

This past weekend I was in Solvang, California to serve as a judge for the first-ever Firestone Chef Challenge. This cookoff was part of the Firestone Discoveries campaign in which a winning chef and a winning consumer Pathfinder would both travel with us to Peru on our April 17-25 Inca Trail Trek.

MargieToschWow. What an amazing weekend. First off, there were three positive, outgoing, fun Pathfinder candidates: Kim Kuchycki, Lotchana Sourivong, and Margie Tosch (who provided some of these photos). These three were selected from among 10 randomly-drawn names from the more than 2,500 people who applied to join us on the trail. Then, we added in three amazing chefs: Rodelio Aglibot from Chicago, Scott Beale from New York, and Tim Kirker, also from Chicago.

As the weekend progressed, I more and more felt like I was part of a live Top Chef episode. We watched the chefs spend their $300 budget in 45 minutes at a local store. We gawked and talked as they prepared their dishes, each cooking over fairly primitive outdoor stoves designed to imitate the Inca Trail and with the help only of one of the Pathfinders each.

Then, it was time for the judging. 50 guests joined the group at Firestone Vineyards for the noon event and each chef had to prepare 50 small plates of food. At my judges table I was joined by some amazing people: Firestone winemaker Paul Warson, editor of The Tasting Panel magazine Anthony Diaz Blue, wine journalist and radio broadcaster Michael Cervin, Executive Chef Janelle Weaver from Kuleto winery in Napa Valley, and Bradley Ogden, well-known chef and/or owner of 10 upscale restaurants.

The action began. Each chef laid down a small plate of food that looked divine: a small piece of steak Firestonechallengewinnerwith an aji pepper sauce over a shrimp cake from Scott; a complex dish of both pork and lamb over quinoa from Tim, and a shredded-chicken, egg, guacamole, and aji pepper sauce from Rodelio. Each dish had been constructed to pair with a Firestone wine.

The judges retired to a private room. That morning, I had wondered whether I would even be able to add anything to the conversation, given all the food and wine expertise of my fellow judges. It turns out, though, the others were keenly interested in how cooking on the Inca Trail would be and so I was very involved in the process.

We discussed the pros and cons of each dish. Our focus was on taste but we threw in some other considerations. Was one chef “hungrier” for the opportunity to go on the trail? Were all the chefs physically fit enough to hike the trail? Should we consider how well known each chef was? Were the dishes they created realistic for the trail?

Ultimately, we decided all three dishes were realistic enough for the trail, in part because of the limited cooking equipment they had, and decided to judge based solely on taste and presentation. The winner? RodelioChef Rodelio Aglibot from Sunda restaurant in Chicago. Rodelio is an amazing chef who focuses on cuisine with an Asian influence. He was born in the Philipines, raised in Hawaii, and served as executive chef of Los Angeles’ Koi restaurant until he moved to Chicago. He is also a personable guy and will make an excellent addition to our April Inca Trail trip. Along with Rodelio, Margie Tosch was selected as Pathfinder and will also join the trip. Margie runs the Wine and Hospitality Network and will be an excellent spokesperson for Firestone on the trip.

My conclusions from the weekend? First, it was fantastic stepping into the world of high-end chefs for a few days. Their world is so different from mine and I very much appreciated them sharing it with me. Second, all six of the people who participated did a great job and invested a lot of time and energy into this event. It was very disappointing having to vote for one chef and, thereby, not vote for the other two. Both Scott and Tim would make amazing guest chefs on the Inca Trail but, more than that, I felt like I had become friends with them in the course of two days. And third, come join us in April! Hiking on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is one of the greatest adventures you will ever have. Plus, this will be a gourmet trip with an amazing chef who will prepare foods paired to Firestone’s wines, all at no extra cost to you.

Not The Original Inca Trail

Saturday, May 16th, 2009

Many, many adventure travelers have dreamed of hiking on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.  I have done so twice and can confirm it is one of the most amazing active travel destinations in the world. However, it was only on my most recent trip to Peru that I realized the Inca Trail that everyone hikes is not actually the original trail to Machu Picchu!

First a little background. The Incas were a small tribe located in what is now Peru before their 9th Emperor, Pachacuti, in the year 1438 began a series of conquests of neighboring peoples. Pachacuti built a network of roads and waystations to connect his growing empire. He also built three royal enclaves in the outskirts of Cusco, one of which was Machu Picchu, essentially a royal resort built in a phenomenal location high above the Urubamba River.

To reach Machu Picchu, the Incan ruler traveled along stone pathways from Cusco into the Sacred Valley, past Ollantaytambo, along the Urubamba River, and up to the ridge where Machu Picchu is perched. This was the natural route, since the Urubamba River had carved out a valley that allowed the trail to be relatively flat most of the way. This trail, however, is not what the thousands of trekkers use each year to reach Machu Picchu.

Instead, trekkers on the “Inca Trail” use an alternate trail that climbs uphill away from the Urubamba River, crosses Dead Woman’s pass, follows high-altitude ridges, and finally descends dramatically to Machu Picchu. This path was probably built by the Incas in part to avoid rainy season slides on the lower path along the river and in part simply because the Incas built not just one trail but a network of roads connecting all their principal cities. The trail most people now know as the Inca Trail was simply an alternate, longer, and more difficult route to Machu Picchu, one Pachacuti certainly didn’t plan on using when he had Machu Picchu built.

So why don’t people trek along the Original Inca Trail? Certainly the higher trail has a number of benefits but I think, more than anything, it is simply tradition. By contrast, the Original (Royal) Inca Trail also has several advantages.

  • It is much flatter and therefore easier, especially for those with knee problems.
  • It is at a much lower altitude and therefore avoids problems with altitude sickness that affect many people on the Classic Inca Trail.
  • It is practically unused; travelers on this trail will see few other visitors.
  • There are more opportunities to see birds, animals, and flowers than on the higher Classic Trail.
  • The campsites even have cold showers!

Don’t get me wrong – I love the Classic Trail. For those of you looking for a challenge or who want the spectacular views that come with hiking up to almost 14,000 feet, I suggest you stick with the Classic Inca Trail. However, if you have always wanted to visit Peru and Machu Picchu, would prefer to do it in Incan style by getting a first amazing glimpse of the ruins from the  Sun Gate after a four-day hike, but don’t think your legs, lungs, or heart can get you over the high passes of the normal route, the Original (Royal) Inca Trail is the perfect option.

Both trips offer isolated ruins, outstanding service from our local guides and porters, and an incredible opportunity to learn about the Inca’s culture and history. Both trips are lifetime experiences you will never forget.  And so we have on our schedule both the Original (Royal) and the Classic Inca Trails. Visit http://www.zephyradventures.com/locations_Peru_Trekking_Tour.htm for more information about our October 10-18 Original Inca Trail trip this fall and our April 17-25 Classic Inca Trail trip next year.

Peru and Idaho – Sold Out and New Trips

Friday, May 30th, 2008

It is a rare year when we sell out a trip and add a new date for the same trip. We have tried that approach in the past but in most cases, the new date just doesn’t sell well. I am not sure if it is because the new date is not listed in our printed catalog, whether people have already made up their vacation plans by the time we add a new trip, or what.

This year, things are a little different. First, we sold out our April departure to Peru for the Inca Trail Trekking Adventure and added a new October date. Now THAT trip is sold out too! Peru has turned out to be a very popular destination – and for good reason. To stay ahead of the game, we have already created and listed on our website an April 18-26, 2009 Peru date. So, if you are interested in traveling with us to Peru, plan ahead!

We have also sold out many of our Skating Adventures: Idaho and Quebec in August are both sold out and the two Mosel trips in July have only four spaces remaining total. That doesn’t leave our skaters with much choice, especially for those looking for a summertime or domestic tour. So, we have added a new Idaho Skating Adventure to the schedule: August 9-13. The Idaho tour features long, smooth skating paths that wind through forests and fields, past streams and lakes. You can’t beat it.

The Inca Trail – A Woman’s Perspective

Wednesday, October 24th, 2007

A few days ago I received an email from a Zephyr traveler, Cathy, who was wondering about our Peru trip on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. She had questions about the camping, since she “very much dislikes camping”. I thought about this and decided I was not the person to answer her, since I enjoy backpacking and sleeping in the woods. Instead, I recruited my girlfriend Devon, who grew up on Long Island far from any camping destinations but nevertheless loved our Peru trip this past April. Here is Devon’s email to Cathy:

Hi Cathy,

Great to hear from you! I’m so glad that Allan told you to contact me, because I can completely relate to all of your concerns. Before I went to Peru, the idea of camping seemed extremely daunting to me. My idea of a fun vacation has always included good, strenuous activity followed by a nice, hot shower and a big, clean bed with a warm blanket.

Well, I want you to know that trekking on the Inca Trail was definitely the highlight of my year! Our group was made up of about 13 Zephyr customers and 27 porters. The porters carried everything, set up our tents, and cooked and served our meals. The only things we carried were our water, snacks, and rain jacket. Our days were filled with great hiking, beautiful scenery, and interesting discussions. Each afternoon, when we arrived at the campsite, our tents were pitched and an afternoon snack was being prepared. Each tent had a tarp underneath it, a tarp inside it, and two nice pads to cushion our sleeping bags. The tents were very high-quality. There was an entrance on either side and the zippers were extremely easy to open and close.

In addition, the staff pitched a cooking tent, a dining tent, and a bathroom tent. The dining tent, which zipped closed on both sides, had a long table and chair for each of us! We would all huddle in there to play cards and chat before and after dinner, so when it was cold, we never had to stay outside. Also, there was always a variety of hot
beverages and soups to keep us warm.

The nights did get cold, so I slept in long underwear, a fleece, a down jacket, and two pairs of socks. Some nights, I even slept in my fleece hat, and gloves! Because the porters carry your bag all day, you don’t have to worry about packing too many clothes, as long as you stay within the weight restriction.

As far as sleeping is concerned, most people slept very well, since they had physically exhausted their bodies each day. I don’t remember having any problems sleeping.

Getting up in the middle of the night was not a problem. The Peruvian guides insist that you keep your shoes inside the tent, so as long as you have your headlamp or flashlight to guide you, it is quick and easy to jump out and then back in the tent. I personally prefer the woods to the bathroom tents, so I did not bother walking over to the bathroom tent. When it is dark, in the middle of the night, and no one is around, it’s safe to walk just a few feet away from your tent and find a good spot.

I can honestly say that I was pleasantly surprised when I realized that the trek involves “luxury camping.” Despite not having a shower or a real bed, I didn’t really feel that we were roughing it. The hiking and the views were so spectacular that I don’t remember missing any modern “comforts.” We were served three hot meals (and one snack) each day, we didn’t have to carry anything heavy, and the Peruvian staff was so friendly and accommodating.

I hope that helps! Please let me know if you have any other specific questions or if there is something that I forgot to address. (Definitely take diamox to prevent altitude sickness in Cuzco and on the trek!)

I would highly recommend this trip!

Devon