Archive for the ‘Chile’ Category

Two Tragedies: Peru and Chile

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Two of my favorite countries suffered tragedies within the last month. Peru was struck by massive flooding in the beginning of February and Chile just experienced a massive earthquake followed by a tsunami.

Trekkers & staff by Kathryn MoeThe flooding in Peru was in the news mostly because almost 1000 travelers were stranded at Machu Picchu due to washing out of the train line. The travelers were rescued, the train is under repair, and the Inca Trail was untouched. The real tragedy, however, was the devastation to villages and fields in the Sacred Valley, which is low-lying land along the Urubamba River.

In Chile, a massive 8.8 earthquake hit off the coast of southern Chile. This was followed by a tsunami that wiped out several villages along the coast. The death toll as of this writing has reached 799 people and the economic cost of reconstruction will be staggering. Luckily, none of our Chilean tour areas were affected much and our local guide and other partners are all safe.

Including Haiti’s 7.0 earthquake, that makes three big disasters this year. We all want to help and those of us at Zephyr received a personal plea from our Peruvian partners to help the small native village of Cachiccata, located in the Sacred Valley and the home of most of our porters and cooks on the Inca Trail. It turns out their water system was destroyed and their crops are now in peril. For $1500, we can purchase a new electric water system that will be a vast improvement on the old, destroyed one. Want to help? We will match your donations up to $750. For full details, see our new blog at www.IncaTrailHiking.com/blog.

Chile and Argentina Active Wine Tour

Sunday, November 15th, 2009

Vineyard Walk at San EstebanWhen I write blog entries trying to summarize one of our tours, I usually try to focus on one angle that gives readers a good idea of the overall picture. I find myself struggling to do that with our Chile & Argentina Wine Adventure, which I just completed two days ago. I found this trip to be so immense that using just one angle isn’t sufficient. The wine was excellent, the activities fun, the people in our group engaging, and the local cultures enchanting.

So instead, I’d like to select one point in time during each day of the eight-day tour that together should provide you with a good picture of the tour.

Day 1: We walked through the magnificent Viña Perez Cruz, an amazing property in the Maipo Valley of Chile. The winery is not really set up for tourism but they gave us permission to walk unattended down their vineyard lanes, along the back of the property, and on to a picnic area where they set up a tasting and we guides created a picnic lunch. I think that first winery experience revealed to everyone (and certainly to me) how accommodating the Chileans and Argentinians were. This first activity also set the tone for the week: the tour would be a combination of activity, wine, fun, and relaxing.

Hike at Las NinasDay 2: We had a typical Zephyr Adventures moment. Hiking to the top of Viña Las Ninas, I suggested taking a new, untried route on the way down. Now, I knew this was liable to take us slightly off course but it is these unplanned excursions that often produce the best memories – and the best stories. This one did, as we somehow got into a neighboring vineyard and then were unable to get back without crossing a barb wire fence and jumping a small canal. Everyone did fine and it certainly produced stories during the ensuing wine tasting!

Day 3: Starting at Emiliana Vineyards, we rode bikes down the country roads of the Casablanca Valley of Chile. Most foreign tourists never get to the Casablanca Valley and even fewer do so on bicycles. Forty kilometers later (for those doing the long route) our group nestled up on the deck of Catrala Vineyards for wine tasting with the winery’s knowledgeable and charming family owner and production manager, Felipe.Dinner table with a view

Day 4: I think dinner at Viña San Esteban, employer of our Chilean guide María José, was the highlight of the trip for many in our group. Located in the Aconcagua Valley of Chile, the winery has an incredible shelter situated on a hill  in the midst of the vineyards. We hiked or rode horses through the vineyard to the shelter. As the sun set to the west, the remaining light shone on the Andes to the east – an absolutely magical moment that went well with the catered barbecue dinner and Carmenere wines.

Day 5: This was a long driving day as we switchbacked up, up, and over the Andes Mountains as we crossed from Chile into Argentina. The two countries are very different and it was special including both on this tour. The Biking in Argentina 2Mendoza area of Argentina is dry, the people are chic, and the economy is struggling. Compare that to Chile where the economy is rocking, the people are friendly and competent, and everything works as it should. It’s truly hard not to love both countries.

Day 6: We had options for all the activities and today was no exception. Everyone biked in Argentina’s Uco Valley but while half the group continued on a long route, the other half stopped at Altus Winery for a cooking class with renowned local chef Lucas Bustos. How Lucas finds the time to manage seven restaurants and give a cooking class, I’ll never know. I do know those cooking had an incredible time while the rest of us arrived to a fabulous meal with free-flowing wine.Argentina Cooking Class 2

Day 7: This was a changeup day, as we hiked in the precordillera (pre-mountains) of the Andes for 4.5 miles to our destination, the Jerome Cervezeria (brewery). The small family-run brewery produced an amazing beer called the Arch Angel, a hefty 9% alcohol beer with a delicious flavor, in part due to aging in Malbec barrels.

Day 8: Our final morning in Mendoza we took an historical walk through the city, led by our Argentinean guide Lorena. We had been together as a group just over a week but it is no exaggeration to say we had formed bonds well beyond what would be normal in that time. Ours was an excellent group of travelers and it was sad to say goodbye, to each other and to South America.

Trekking at the Tip of the World: Patagonia

Sunday, January 4th, 2009

I recently returned from a nine-day Trekking Adventure in Patagonia with eight Zephyr travelers.  My major impression prior to the trip: Patagonia is a land of mystery.  My impression now that I am back a few weeks: Patagonia is a land of mystery!  I’d like to use this post to clear up some of the mystery, at least as far as our trekking trip goes, so those of you have thought about Patagonia as a travel destination will know better if it is right for you.

Location: Before you begin reading this post, orient yourself as to where Patagonia lies.  Type “Google Maps” into your browser and then type “Punta Arenas, Chile”, our airport arrival city, into Google Maps.  Now keep clicking the minus sign (zoom out) to get a view of where Patagonia lies with respect to the rest of the world. Patagonia lies way, way south.  It is farther south than Australia or the southern tip of Africa. It is across a small channel from Tierra del Fuego and a short flight from Antarctica.

Access: Patagonia is not easy to reach. Our group flew into Santiago, Chile and then took an internal flight south to Punta Arenas. From Punta Arenas, it is a five-hour drive north to Torres del Paine National Park, the location of our trek and perhaps the most beautiful area of Patagonia. Patagonia itself is much bigger than this, comprising the entire lower tip of South America including both Chile and Argentina, but our trip focused mostly on Torres del Paine.

Weather: The weather in Patagonia is wild and woolly (as you might expect) but surprisingly temperate (as you might not). The average high temperature ranges from 38 degrees in the middle of winter (July) – making it warmer than winters in my home of Boulder, Colorado – to 56 degrees during December when we visited.  We had periods of intense rain (none while we hiked), high winds (mostly near the glaciers), sunny skies, and moderate temperatures. The weather was excellent for hiking and better than most of us expected.

Scenery: Perhaps the most awe inspiring part of the trip was the scenery.  We hiked along alpine lakes, forded rushing rivers, wound through dense forests, and  crossed fire-scorched wastelands.  We tramped through open grasslands, climbed rocky passes, and reached mammoth glaciers that have sculpted the mountains that make the park so wonderful.  The famous Torres, namesake of the park, stood magnificently above us on one hike. There is really nothing like this scenery in the Continental United States.

Trekking: As a reminder, we at Zephyr Adventures define trekking as “multiday hiking without carrying gear”. This allows trekkers to reach amazing areas of the world burdened only by a small day pack containing lunch, a camera, a rain jacket, and a few other necessities. In Patagonia, we achieved this in a number of ways. First, we limited our gear by staying and eating in backcountry refugios, or mountain hostels. Second, what gear we did need (change of clothes, toiletries, etc) was transported for us either by human porter or Zodiac boat.

Hiking Trails: The hiking routes were surprisingly well traveled. In an effort to save their natural treasures, the local authorities keep hikers to established paths and allow overnighting only in specific campgrounds and refugios.  We ended up hiking with the same groups each day and this was an unexpected pleasure as we swapped stories with hikers from other groups and met people from around the world. Also a surprise was that much of the hiking was quite moderate, with only the occasional foray (always optional) up a glacial-carved canyon requiring serious effort. One can make the hiking quite strenuous or relatively mild as one chooses.

Accommodations: Our accommodations were a combination of hotels, a luxurious Eco Camp with domed tents, refugios, and one night of camping. I think all of us found the accommodations surprising – some of us because they were so luxurious in the backcountry of Patagonia and others because of the rustic conditions!

Cuisine: The food was excellent.  The Eco Camp staff treated us like royalty, we dined on fresh beef, lamb, and salmon, and even our packed lunches in the middle of nowhere were delicious. A fantastic custom of the locals was to greet us each evening with a pisco sour, the national drink of Chile (and Peru). We should adopt that habit at home!

Culture: In fact, my favorite part of the trip was the culture. I love Latin America and its people. It was great fun talking with our Patagonian guides and learning about life in that remote area of the world. I enjoyed practicing my Spanish, playing a pickup game of soccer with our camp staff, and talking with locals around the fire one evening. Simply placing a mountain trek in a Spanish-speaking country makes it a winner for me!

And for you? Is Patagonia the right place for your next vacation?

I would highly recommend Patagonia if you enjoy hiking but prefer not to carry your own gear, like the luxury of having a bed and shower most nights (even in the backcountry) but can handle a rustic venue, and want an adventure most people never dream about. Pisco sours with 10,000-year old glacier ice included.

Check out our next Patagonia Trek planned for February of 2010.