African Safaris: Tanzania versus South Africa

March 6th, 2010

As an adventure travel company, one of the things I have always said is “we only run active tours”. No bus tours for me, thank you. However, I must admit our two African safaris stretch that a bit.

Lion and Zephyr Landrover in Tanzania

In Africa, we run a “hike, wine, and safari” tour that is absolutely incredible.  And just last month in Tanzania we added a five-day safari to the back end of our Mount Kilimanjaro trek.

Now, safaris themselves are amazing. I am a pretty jaded traveler, having seen many places and sights around the world, but I can truly say a safari is a top-five experience of a lifetime. The thrill of seeing animals in action, the beauty of being in the great African outdoors, and the joy of discussing each day’s sightings with your fellow safari participants is something everyone should experience once.

Plus, we do two things to enhance the experience for active travelers. First, we schedule the safari as part of a tour, specifically by adding in hiking (South Africa) and the Kili climb (Tanzania). Second, we get out of the vehicle to do short walking safaris twice on each trip, which both gets us a little exercise and gives us a distinctly unique viewpoint.

My experiences in Tanzania and South Africa have been entirely different. In Tanzania Allan and Devon on Safariwe visited the southern Serengeti region during the Great Migration and so saw tens of thousands of wildebeests and zebras plus half a dozen separate prides of lions who were feasting on them. We also visited Ngorongoro Crater, a picturesque setting with almost theme park-like perfection – and yet entirely natural. In Tanzania, the vistas were vast and it was easy to feel you were on the set of the Lion King.

In South Africa, our safari experience is very different, in part because it takes place in a private reserve. While the area seems huge, the expanses are nowhere near as large as in Tanzania. On the plus side, the guides and trackers pretty much know which animals are in the area and it is simply a matter of finding them. Even better, because we were allowed to drive at night (unlike in the Tanzanian national parks), we were able to be out when the animals, especially the predators, were most active. The whole experience was like a search for National Geographic-style action sequences, keeping us all on the edge of our seats for the drives.

Both safari experiences have a few things in common. The local staff are exceptional. The lodges and tented safari camps are luxurious. The food is excellent and the service impeccable. You really feel as if you are an English baron or baroness out on an Africa safari in the late 1800s!

We are just now setting our schedule for 2011 and our two African trips are planned for February (Tanzania) and October (South Africa). Leave a comment on this blog post if you are interested to join us!

Two Tragedies: Peru and Chile

March 3rd, 2010

Two of my favorite countries suffered tragedies within the last month. Peru was struck by massive flooding in the beginning of February and Chile just experienced a massive earthquake followed by a tsunami.

Trekkers & staff by Kathryn MoeThe flooding in Peru was in the news mostly because almost 1000 travelers were stranded at Machu Picchu due to washing out of the train line. The travelers were rescued, the train is under repair, and the Inca Trail was untouched. The real tragedy, however, was the devastation to villages and fields in the Sacred Valley, which is low-lying land along the Urubamba River.

In Chile, a massive 8.8 earthquake hit off the coast of southern Chile. This was followed by a tsunami that wiped out several villages along the coast. The death toll as of this writing has reached 799 people and the economic cost of reconstruction will be staggering. Luckily, none of our Chilean tour areas were affected much and our local guide and other partners are all safe.

Including Haiti’s 7.0 earthquake, that makes three big disasters this year. We all want to help and those of us at Zephyr received a personal plea from our Peruvian partners to help the small native village of Cachiccata, located in the Sacred Valley and the home of most of our porters and cooks on the Inca Trail. It turns out their water system was destroyed and their crops are now in peril. For $1500, we can purchase a new electric water system that will be a vast improvement on the old, destroyed one. Want to help? We will match your donations up to $750. For full details, see our new blog at www.IncaTrailHiking.com/blog.

Mount Kilimanjaro: Six Days of Wonderful Trekking …

February 9th, 2010

… followed by a hell of a slog. I promised Zephyr’s Facebook page fans I would give this blog post that name and it does more or less reflect our experiences on Mount Kilimanjaro.

1 Kili in the distanceTen hardy Zephyr alumni joined our first-ever trip to Tanzania to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. We all met in Moshi, Tanzania after a very long flight via Amsterdam on KLM. Tanzania was hot but the Kilimanjaro-brand beers were cold and the view of the mountain from our hotel windows was outstanding.

Our route was the seven-day Lemosho Route, which to me is the best route of six up the mountain. Most people take either the five-day Marangu Route or the six-day Machame route but the Lemosho Route provides days of fantastic trekking with few others around and a more gradual ascent of the mountain.

3 Early TrekkingIn fact, I was shocked at how nice the trekking actually was. My most recent mountain climbing experience was on Aconcagua, where I spent 13 days on the mountain with two friends and found most of it a chore. This was different. For one thing, the scenery was very pretty and we all enjoyed our climb through a tropical forest, rugged open moorlands, and finally an alpine desert environment.

It also made a difference that we were pampered on this trip. The Tanzanian government has smartly instituted restrictions on climbers, requiring everyone to get a guide and most to use porters. Our group of 11 had – are you ready for this? – one lead guide, four assistant guides, two cooks, two servers, two camp staff, and 28 porters for a total of 39 Tanzanian support staff!

5 PortersThis might seem excessive but pretty much everyone on the mountain is traveling in a similar style. Our group had a cooking tent and eating tent, tables and chairs, and food for 50 people for a week. Our guides were excellent and the porters, who are heroic, carried 20-kilo (44 pound) packs, often times on their heads!

Our seven days on the mountain can really be broken into three phases: five days of pleasant trekking, one horrendously-long summit day, and the final morning exit. (I believe other, shorter routes up the mountain are harder and less pleasant on the initial days.)

The crux of the whole week was the summit day. Because our group was moving at different speeds, we broke into two groups. We had been going to sleep earlier and earlier all week and the evening before the summit climb most of us dropped off to sleep by 7:00 PM. Group A then woke up at 11:00 PM, grabbed a light breakfast/snack, and started for the mountain at midnight. It was cold but not excessively cold. Worst was the wind, absent all week, but which now decided to make an appearance with continuous blasts.

12 Starting the descentGroup B, which I joined, woke at midnight and started at 1:00 AM. To get an idea of how fast we hiked up the mountain, walk across the room at home or at work. Now, do it again at half pace. One more time, cutting your speed in half again. Because of the high altitude and lack of oxygen reaching our systems, that is the pace we moved. Even then, the summit hike was difficult. The strong wind made things miserable, some in the group felt nauseous, and all of us just wanted to get to the top. Still, there were no technical parts at all and so willpower was really the name of the game.

The plan worked well and our two groups merged together just before the crater rim. The sun rose on our right, a beacon of light convincing us the night was not actually without end, as we had feared. We eventually topped out on the crater rim and none of us considered turning around at that point, with only 45 minutes remaining to reach the high point of the mountain along a gradual ascent on top of the crater rim.

11c Allan on topFinally: success at 19,340 feet above sea level! Of course, like most mountains it was freezing on top and most of the group suffered through a quick group photo before heading down. I did stay on top for 15-20 minutes, taking photos of others and making sure our group was okay. In all, 10 of 11 of our group made it to the top, with only one person having to turn around early on the summit climb. (I am convinced this was due to a bout of traveler’s disease earlier in the week, which can sap one’s energy.)

My conclusions? First, the mountain is worth climbing. In addition to some excellent trekking, the opportunity to summit the Roof of Africa is something you should not pass up. Second, this is achievable by many people. Our group of experienced Zephyr alumni aged 17 to 61 was strong but many others can succeed as well. In fact, if we have enough interest, we might change the 2011 itinerary to include eight days on the mountain, which would make the summit day that much easier. Third, you should travel with Zephyr Adventures! I was very impressed how the service provided by Zephyr and our local staff was equivalent to that of other, more expensive operators. In fact, on the plane ride home one of our climb participants favorably compared her experience against that of someone who joined one of the more famous Kili outfitters – this outfitter costs 50% more and doesn’t even provide an American guide on the trip!

We will set our 2011 trip date soon, so let me know by commenting here if you wish to join us next year. Coming soon – a post on part two of the trip, the safari!

Judging the Firestone Chef Challenge

January 15th, 2010

FirstonepathfinderTwo posts about food in one week? Unheard of for me but true with this post. Some of you might know we have co-organized the Wine Bloggers Conference for two years and in 2010 also will be co-organizing the International Food Bloggers Conference with our partners at Foodista. Perhaps I have food and wine on the mind.

This past weekend I was in Solvang, California to serve as a judge for the first-ever Firestone Chef Challenge. This cookoff was part of the Firestone Discoveries campaign in which a winning chef and a winning consumer Pathfinder would both travel with us to Peru on our April 17-25 Inca Trail Trek.

MargieToschWow. What an amazing weekend. First off, there were three positive, outgoing, fun Pathfinder candidates: Kim Kuchycki, Lotchana Sourivong, and Margie Tosch (who provided some of these photos). These three were selected from among 10 randomly-drawn names from the more than 2,500 people who applied to join us on the trail. Then, we added in three amazing chefs: Rodelio Aglibot from Chicago, Scott Beale from New York, and Tim Kirker, also from Chicago.

As the weekend progressed, I more and more felt like I was part of a live Top Chef episode. We watched the chefs spend their $300 budget in 45 minutes at a local store. We gawked and talked as they prepared their dishes, each cooking over fairly primitive outdoor stoves designed to imitate the Inca Trail and with the help only of one of the Pathfinders each.

Then, it was time for the judging. 50 guests joined the group at Firestone Vineyards for the noon event and each chef had to prepare 50 small plates of food. At my judges table I was joined by some amazing people: Firestone winemaker Paul Warson, editor of The Tasting Panel magazine Anthony Diaz Blue, wine journalist and radio broadcaster Michael Cervin, Executive Chef Janelle Weaver from Kuleto winery in Napa Valley, and Bradley Ogden, well-known chef and/or owner of 10 upscale restaurants.

The action began. Each chef laid down a small plate of food that looked divine: a small piece of steak Firestonechallengewinnerwith an aji pepper sauce over a shrimp cake from Scott; a complex dish of both pork and lamb over quinoa from Tim, and a shredded-chicken, egg, guacamole, and aji pepper sauce from Rodelio. Each dish had been constructed to pair with a Firestone wine.

The judges retired to a private room. That morning, I had wondered whether I would even be able to add anything to the conversation, given all the food and wine expertise of my fellow judges. It turns out, though, the others were keenly interested in how cooking on the Inca Trail would be and so I was very involved in the process.

We discussed the pros and cons of each dish. Our focus was on taste but we threw in some other considerations. Was one chef “hungrier” for the opportunity to go on the trail? Were all the chefs physically fit enough to hike the trail? Should we consider how well known each chef was? Were the dishes they created realistic for the trail?

Ultimately, we decided all three dishes were realistic enough for the trail, in part because of the limited cooking equipment they had, and decided to judge based solely on taste and presentation. The winner? RodelioChef Rodelio Aglibot from Sunda restaurant in Chicago. Rodelio is an amazing chef who focuses on cuisine with an Asian influence. He was born in the Philipines, raised in Hawaii, and served as executive chef of Los Angeles’ Koi restaurant until he moved to Chicago. He is also a personable guy and will make an excellent addition to our April Inca Trail trip. Along with Rodelio, Margie Tosch was selected as Pathfinder and will also join the trip. Margie runs the Wine and Hospitality Network and will be an excellent spokesperson for Firestone on the trip.

My conclusions from the weekend? First, it was fantastic stepping into the world of high-end chefs for a few days. Their world is so different from mine and I very much appreciated them sharing it with me. Second, all six of the people who participated did a great job and invested a lot of time and energy into this event. It was very disappointing having to vote for one chef and, thereby, not vote for the other two. Both Scott and Tim would make amazing guest chefs on the Inca Trail but, more than that, I felt like I had become friends with them in the course of two days. And third, come join us in April! Hiking on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is one of the greatest adventures you will ever have. Plus, this will be a gourmet trip with an amazing chef who will prepare foods paired to Firestone’s wines, all at no extra cost to you.

The Food in France

January 10th, 2010

Lavender and sunflower setting in Provence, FranceEven if you have never traveled to France, you probably have heard all about the food. I am not talking about our elected leaders’ attempt to rename French Fries as Freedom Fries but instead about the amazing cuisine the French produce.

In traveling around the country numerous times, I have had quite a few excellent meals. Several stand out.

The best might have been the multi-course meal at our hotel in Chalon-sur-Saone in Burgundy. The hotel previously boasted one Michelin Star but sadly, had lost this. We couldn’t tell. The restaurant opened for our group on a normally-shuttered Sunday and served us an amazing meal including local rabbit and delicious escargot in a garlic-laden pesto sauce. We were all stuffed when the proprietor/chef came around with the dessert cart – full of about a dozen desserts baked and created just for our group. After choosing one, he would look at us and say “What else?” This was topped by the equally large cheese cart, after which we rolled out of the restaurant and into our rooms.

There was the time Kris Thomas and I were researching restaurants for our Burgundy tour and found a cute little “wine cave” style restaurant in the small town of Montagny-lès-Buxy. The cafe was run by a Parisian academic who loved the idea of us bringing 20 Americans to his small town. With an excess of enthusiasm, he sat us down in the empty restaurant and said “I will prepare you something your group will love.”

After a quarter hour, he returned with a plate of two large sausages. Cutting into one, we immediately smelled a foul scent strongly reminiscent of a backed-up bathroom drain. Ugh – this was Andouille, made from the gastrointestinal innards of a pig. Luckily, the nice owner had an even nicer Golden Retreiver who ate the two large sausages in four bites as he caught the chunks we threw to him from our table. He then returned with a delicious salad and a lovely baked potato dish, which we explained would be perfect for our American groups – with perhaps a steak rather than the Andouille.

Another time, I was at a family reunion north of Bordeaux, sitting down to a dinner of about 20 people at a summer home owned by my aunt and uncle. (Great reunion location, no? All the others have been in our home states of Washington and Oregon.) We were all seated at an outdoor table in their yard overlooking the fields below and treated to an amazing 13-course meal served by George, the local village’s gourmet chef in residence. Even more amazing, George was also (and normally) the village plumber! The food was spectacular and the wine flowed freely.

These experiences are not unique. If you are a reader, I can suggest two fantastic books for you to read. Burgundy Stars by William Echikson is a true account of an aspiring chef’s desire to achieve one Michelin Star for his Burgundian restaurant. It is an inspiring account of his dedication to every facet of his food and wine. After you read it, make sure to Google what happens to the proprietor after the story ends.

If you have not yet read A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle, I suggest you do so. This is a truly fascinating account of a British couple’s move to Provence and put this area squarely on the tourist map. As you might know, we are running a Provence Biking Adventure April 19-24 and would love to have you join us for some outstanding biking, food, and wine. Here is just one sample menu from a simple three-course evening meal we will experience:

MENU PROVENCAL

Avec 1/4l de vin Aoc et le café inclus
1/4 liter of wine and coffee included

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Mariage de caillette et terrine de nos régions, marmelade au muscat Beaumes de Venise
Assorted selection of regional pates with sweet wine and onion marmelade

Soupe à l’oignon gratinée « vieille façon
Traditional baked onion soup in the “old style”

Salade composée aux saveurs méditerranéennes
Tuna, boiled egg, seasonal crudites, green salad parfumed with provencal dressing

Aubergines confites à la Provençale « recette de 30 ans
Pan fried aubergines in provencal tomatoes sauce

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Dos de Saumon sauce à l’aneth, émincés de légumes du sud et riz de Camargue
Salmon steak, grilled with butter and dill, garnisched with local rice and vegetables

Suprême de volaille rôti au thym et romarin, pôelée de saison, gratin dauphinois à l’ail
Roasted chicken seasoned with thyme and rosemary gravy

Daube de taureau à l’Avignonnaise, servi avec ses grosses pâtes au fromage
Stewed bull cooked in red wine sauce, served with pasta topped with cheese

Médaillon de porc sauce moutarde à l’ancienne, légumes cuisinés du chef
Roast fillet of porc and old fashion mustard sauce

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Poires pôchées au vin rouge des Côtes du Rhône à la cannelle
Fruits pear poched in red wine sauce and cinnanon

Tarte aux fruits de saison de notre pâtissier
“Tarte” of the day

Faisselle des Alpes au miel de Lavande
Cottage cheese with honey syrup and candied orange

Mousse au chocolat caramel ou Fondant au chocolat chaud et crème anglaise
Chocolate and caramel mousse or Warm chocolate cake and custard